WritingIssue 023·14 Apr 2026·4 min

A Kuala Lumpur list, written for nobody in particular

The places I take visitors, and a small theory about why every interesting city has at least one stall, one bookshop, and one strange tower.

Visitors ask me where to go. I always hesitate, because the honest answer is that the best version of KL is not a list — it's a sequence of accidents.

But they want a list, so here is one.

The stall

Ah Weng Koh at Imbi Market. Hainanese coffee, eggs that have been done the same way since before I was born, toast with kaya that somehow never disappoints. Go before 10am. Go alone or with one person. Do not bring a plan for after.

The bookshop

BookXcess at Amcorp Mall. It is too large and too cheap and slightly chaotic. It is also the best bookshop in the country because it is genuinely stocked by someone who reads. You will find a book you didn't know you needed. This is the point.

The strange tower

Not the Petronas Towers. Those are for photographs. I mean the Telekom Tower — the one that looks like a bamboo shoot from certain angles and a relic from a different future from others. It is not open to the public. You look at it from the road. That's enough.

The theory

Every interesting city has one of each. A place where the food is the point, a place where the books are the point, and one building that doesn't quite fit. KL has all three. Most cities do, if you look properly.

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